A food walk through Madrid: the traditional food you have to try

The traditional food in Madrid is down-to-earth and hearty: the bocadillo de calamares (fried squid sandwich), cocido madrileño (chickpea stew), callos a la madrileña (tripe stew), patatas bravas, grilled pig's ear, soldaditos de Pavía and, for something sweet, churros with chocolate. You can try almost all of it on a walk through the centre, between Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor and La Latina, so even on a layover of just a few hours you have time to get a taste of the city.

This is the shortlist of what a local would recommend you try, with what is worth knowing about each dish:

Cocido, the most Madrid dish of all

Cocido is traditionally served in three courses: first the broth with fine noodles; then the chickpeas with the vegetables (cabbage, carrot, potato), and finally the meats, pork belly, chorizo and black pudding. It is a lunchtime dish, generous and meant to be eaten slowly, so do not squeeze it in before an afternoon with a lot to do.

Offal and tavern cooking

Madrid has a long tradition of offal dishes: as well as callos, some traditional bars still serve gallinejas and entresijos (fried lamb intestines and mesentery), crisp and golden. If you are the type to try everything, it is the most authentic experience on the list. Snails in a spicy sauce are another classic of the taverns in the centre.

Madrid's pastries are tied to the calendar, and it is worth asking what is in season when you visit:

• Torrijas: bread soaked in milk or wine, dipped in egg and fried, typical of Holy Week.
• Rosquillas de San Isidro: the plain “tontas” and the sugar-glazed “listas”, around the patron saint's festival in May.
• Buñuelos and huesos de santo: around All Saints' Day.
• Bartolillos: small fried pastries filled with custard, a traditional sweet that is getting harder and harder to find.
• Violet sweets: the most typical edible souvenir to take home in your suitcase.

For a full day's plan, from breakfast to dinner and with classic addresses, follow our foodie route through Madrid. And if you want to try several things in one place, the food markets let you graze from stall to stall.

With a long layover at Barajas you can head out to try the essentials. First, check that your ticket and documents allow you to leave the transit area and work out your margins carefully; we explain it step by step in our guide to making the most of your Barajas layover to visit Madrid. A realistic plan:

1. Taxi from the airport to Puerta del Sol: the centre is inside the M-30, with a fixed fare of €33 from any terminal.
2. A squid sandwich in Plaza Mayor and some bravas or soldaditos de Pavía in a nearby tavern.
3. Churros with chocolate for dessert before heading back.
4. Back to the terminal with enough time to go through security again.

If your layover allows for more, Madrid in 24 hours has an itinerary that combines sights and food. So you do not depend on finding a free taxi on the way back, make your airport taxi booking for the time that suits you.